Himroo - Fascinating
Fabric
Origin:
As per historians, Himroo
has a Persian origin. During an ebullient time in Indian history, when emperor
Mohammed Bin Tuglak and his loyal herd of elephants tried to relocate their
headquarters to Daulatabad in Maharashtra, some precious trade secrets of
Persian shawl weaving techniques clandestinely found their way into the narrow
alleys of Aurangabad. At a later period in history, and in the Moghal period,
weavers who enjoyed imperial patronage began challenging the supremacy of the
Persian weavers. The Himroo shawls produced in India evoked intense curiosity in
neighboring foreign lands. This not only guaranteed a lucrative export market,
but also uplifted the image of the Mogul dynasty. As Himroo is very unique and
different, these fabrics were much liked by members of royal family and others
from the elite families. In the ancient times, the fabrics used to be made from
gold and silver and were handmade.
What is Himroo?
Himroo, a fascinating
fabric from Maharashtra, is an extra-weft, figured fabric with a solid ground of
satin or twill, decorated with figurative motifs and manufactured ordinarily
from cotton and viscose rayon yarn on a cotton ground. It is also woven from
silk yarn and gold thread on a silk ground. The major feature of Himroo is that
it is made from fabric of silk and cotton and a finished product looks like
satin. The silk and cotton are largely grown in Aurangabad district. These are
luxurious fabrics mostly made for the royal families and nobles. The Himroo is
locally known as ‘Kam Khuab’ which means little dream. Himroo is the oldest
fabrics that are still prevalent in India. These fabrics denote nobility and
royalty in olden times.
Designs and patterns:
Himroo is very distinct
and peculiar with the use of bold patterns and colours. Originally made with the
mix of cotton and silk, gives a look and feel of satin cloth, thus making Himroo
a perfect choice for shawls and stoles. The design patterns used are shapes of
hexagons, circle, octagons, ovals and diamonds. Fruit patterns are also used
which mainly are of pineapples, almonds and more. Some interlocking patterns are
also followed with designs of flowers, animals, leaves are commonly used.
One can see the richness in the craftsmanship and the material used.
The Making Process of Himroo:
Himroo is made on a throw
shuttle loom using cotton in the wrap and silk in the weft. Here at the very
beginning of the weaving the designs are decided and worked with the multiple
looms. The weaving is done with the interlacing of weft yarns with the wrap.
This special cotton brocade is woven on a throw-shuttle loom and has an art-silk
or silk mix. It has a complicated technique of weaving. The design has to be
decided at the outset since two kinds of threads are mixed. The design are
geometrical and floral. Intricate creeper designs are popular. Himroo has a
satiny sheen and is popular for vests, blouses, coats, cloaks, shawls, and
furnishings.
These fabrics are uniquely
designed with the bold colours and patterns, as well as they have a peculiar
appearance. Their unique designs and patterns are the characteristics of Himroo
fabrics. The Himroo weavers mainly weave shawls, veils, bridal saris and more.
These fabrics find a special place in the wedding ceremonies even today. In
olden days, the weavers used to weave the fabrics with hand, but today they use
machines.